On my book shelf
Amuse- Bouche
Art and Science of Culinary
Aquavit
Bouchon
Canon Ranch Cooks
Craft
Culinary Artistry
Cheese Making
Food in History
Fresh
Frieda's Fiestas
Good to Great
Nobu
Refined American Cuisine
Southern Table
Superbaby Food
Tastes from Texas
The French Laundry
The Perfectionist
The Professional Chef
The World of Caviar
...more.




A Very Good Year - Reviewing the meals of 2008
2008 was another busy year for the local restaurant industry.
The most noteworthy accomplishment occurred when chef
Adam Siegel won the James Beard Foundation's award for Best
Chef in the Midwest , placing him in the same rarefied air as
Sanford D'Amato. Siegel is head chef at two fine restaurants:
Bartolotta's Lake Park Bistro and Bacchus.
Last year also saw the opening of two major construction
projects: the Harley-Davidson Museum and the expanded
Potawatomi Bingo Casino. The museum boasts a café and a
full-service restaurant named Motor, which offers a sleek
dining room of steel and glass along with a rather casual menu
geared toward large portions, while the casino relocated its top
restaurant, Dream Dance, to a new location on the ground
floor. Dream Dance chef Jason Gorman 's revamped menu
focuses more on Wisconsin ingredients.
Two other restaurants, RuYi and Wild Earth, also joined
Potawatomi's dining scene. RuYi has an interesting pan-Asian
menu that ranges from Peking duck and Thai papaya salad to
Korean barbecue beef and numerous noodle dishes. Wild Earth
brings a contemporary menu and warm décor. The strip
steak is excellent for the price and every meal begins with a
serving of fry bread, an American-Indian treat.
The suburb of Brookfield has added some restaurants as well.
Although many are chains with predictable fare, three are quite
different: Agave, Haute Taco and Wasabi. Agave's ambitious
menu with Mexican-inspired tapas doesn't always hit the
mark-but when it does, the results are tasty. Haute Taco runs
with a small menu of tacos that have upscale twists, including
slow-cooked duck meat and short ribs. Another star, Wasabi,
brings Japanese food and presentation into the 21st century.
The kushi yaki and sunomono are novel and memorable.
Small-plate dining continues to grow, as evidenced by Swig
reappearing in the Third Ward after a noticeable absence and
Ginger opening in the site of the former Barossa. Both employ
an international tapas concept instead of a strictly Spanish
approach. On the more casual side is Fat Abbey, on the
Milwaukee River , and the new Café Centraal, in Bay View.
Both feature a great, if pricey, list of beers devoted to Belgium
. Centraal also serves several preparations of mussels.
In June, a French café named Le Reve opened in Wauwatosa
. The original menu of salads and sandwiches has grown to
include some fine entrees, all in a pleasant Parisian setting. The
former Brew City has been revamped by owner R.C. Schmidt
as Trinity Three Irish Pubs. The place now owns three
separate bars and dining areas with unique characteristics, and
the outdoor patio has never looked better. Schmidt also
purchased the neighboring Harp and improved its menu.
The Third Ward added Rustico, a casual place for great pizzas,
from the same owners of Café Zarletti. Another pizza hot
spot is Transfer, which has an abundant choice of toppings
(the roasted garlic sauce is particularly great).
The city also saw two new Asian restaurants in Mai Thai and
Mekong Café. Brady Street 's Mai Thai, which has lovely
décor and a comfortable bar, offers Thai food with a lighter
touch than usual. The Mekong Café covers the foods of all
of Southeast Asia . The Vietnamese ban xio are terrific crepes
seasoned with turmeric. The only downside is that the service
here can be slow and spotty.
Front Burner